1.1 A jumper is still a spider

Jumping spiders belong to the family Salticidae. They hunt mostly by sight, stalking and pouncing on prey. They use webbing for hammocks and safety lines instead of building a web to catch dinner. That little hammock is a place to rest, hide and molt. Leave it in place. [1, 2]

A spider has eight walking legs and two main body sections. Its hard outer covering is called an exoskeleton. As a young spider grows, it sheds that covering in a molt.

An adult female Regal with pale orange coloring and pink-purple chels.

1.2 Head, butt and the parts between

Think of the front section as the head and the back section as the butt. The proper names are useful, but you don't need an anatomy degree to follow this course.

Head and butt

Young male Regal, around i5–i6. Head upper left, butt lower right. Photo: Kristin.

Chels and pedipalps

Male Regal. The green chels sit below his eyes, with furry pedipalps beside them.

Now you can compliment those chels by name. Their shine can change with the light and viewing angle.

1.3 Instar counts growth stages

Each molt starts a new instar. The i in i5 stands for instar, and the number tells you the recorded growth stage. It doesn't mean five weeks or five months old. Growth speed varies, and sellers sometimes estimate the number. You can ask, 'Is that an approximation, or tracked by molts?'

A large jumper may still have a molt ahead of it. Adult-sized describes how big it looks. Sexually mature means its reproductive organs have finished developing. Regals and Bolds normally reach that point with their final molt. A number like i9 or i11 doesn't confirm maturity by itself. [15, 16]

Our starting point: SPiT recommends approximately i5–i6 or older for a first jumper. Smaller spiderlings need closer attention, smaller prey and tighter escape control.

How many molts should you expect?

It varies, even within a species. These published observations give us a useful starting range, counted from hatching through the molt into maturity. They aren't a countdown for an individual spider. [15, 16]

Molt totals vary. Use your seller's recorded instar as your starting point, then add one each time your spider molts.

Care takeaway: Look at the spider's development and behavior. Don't stop expecting a molt just because it has reached a particular number.

1.4 Curious doesn't mean predictable

Jumpers often turn toward movement, inspect new objects and explore their surroundings. Some accept handling readily, while others are hesitant or quick to retreat. One spider may pounce on a feeder that another ignores. Learn your spider's usual behavior rather than expecting every jumper to act like the one in a favorite video.

Those big eyes aren't just for looking adorable. Jumpers have impressive vision and learning abilities. Get within about 12 inches and yes, they can see you! They can pick up on patterns and may learn that your arrival means food or a chance to explore. [8, 9]

Eight eyes don't always mean a clear view. Tarantulas and many other spiders rely heavily on touch and vibration, with sight doing more to detect light changes and movement. Jumpers use their large front eyes to see fine detail and judge prey. Wolf spiders also hunt using vision, while ogre-faced net-casters have huge eyes especially good at gathering light at night. Different spiders use their eyes in different ways. [17]

1.5 What to expect during a molt

Webbing inside a sheltered space makes a secure hammock. Leave it intact during care.

1. Before: Your spider may eat less, hide, and thicken or close its hammock. Premolt can last a few days or sometimes several weeks before the actual molt. Don't open the hammock to check inside. [2, 11]

2. During: Remove live prey. Keep drinking water available nearby and maintain the usual humidity without spraying the spider or soaking its hammock. Leave the spider and old molt (skin) alone.

3. After: Wait for your spider to come out of the hammock on its own and move normally before offering prey. Don't coax it out or try to inspect its hidden fangs.

4. Record: Note the molt date and new instar if you're tracking them. Remove the old molt only when you can reach it without disturbing the spider or hammock.

Keep up your light daily misting during premolt, molting and recovery. Mist a reachable wall or suitable surface for drinking water, avoiding the spider and its hammock. Let surfaces dry between mistings rather than keeping the enclosure constantly wet. Leaving the spider alone doesn't mean stopping its water care. [2, 11]

The new outer covering and fangs need time to harden. Recovery often takes a few days. Around 2–5 days can fit keeper experience, but some spiders stay tucked away for a week or longer. Use their return to normal activity as your guide. A quick peek out or a short trip for water doesn't necessarily mean they're ready to hunt. [11]

After a molt: Let the spider come out when it's ready. Keep offering drinking water, and keep live prey out of the enclosure while it's recovering.

1.6 Lifespan and the time you have together

By i5–i6, your jumper is already a few months old. The exact age varies, so ask for a hatch date if the seller has one. For Regals, a rough total lifespan from hatching is about 1–1.5 years for males and 2–3 years for females. These are estimates, and some live shorter lives. [7]

That time starts before you bring your spider home. Buying an older spider means you'll have less of its life together. Mature males may slow down on eating, and older spiders may need easier climbing routes. We'll cover those care changes in Module 4.

This male Regal has classic black-and-white markings. Photo: Kristin.

Key takeaway: Make care choices from your spider's abdomen, behavior and molt history together. A food refusal in a thick hammock means something different from food refusal with a shriveled abdomen and weakness.

1.7 Male or female? Start with the right clues

Telling a spider's sex is called sexing. Some clues appear while a spider is still growing, but mature anatomy is easier to confirm. Start with the body parts, then use color as a supporting clue. [14, 19]

Young males can develop swollen palps before their final molt, and a female's developing epigyne may show through before it's fully formed. An experienced keeper can help separate an early clue from a mature feature. A big abdomen or a fuzzy palp alone isn't enough. [15, 19]

Get a useful photo

• Take a clear front or slight side view of the palps while your spider is active and settled.
• For the underside, photograph it through a clean enclosure wall while it climbs. Don't flip it over, restrain it or disturb a hammock.
• Include the species, known instar and last molt when asking for help.

It's fine to write sex unknown for now. You can provide good care while you wait for clearer clues.

1.8 Female and male Regals

Regals often show noticeable differences in color, especially once they're larger. Here are two examples from our files.

Female Regal

Adult female. Pale orange facial hairs and pink-purple chels.

Male Regal

Subadult or adult male. Black-and-white coloring and green chels.

Color can give an early clue in some Regals, but a black-and-white female can look a lot like a male. Confirm with development and anatomy rather than one color. The male photo above shows general appearance; it doesn't give a clear enough view to demonstrate fully mature palpal bulbs. [14, 19, 23]

1.9 Female and male Bolds

Bolds are trickier to sex by color because males and females often wear the same black-and-white outfit. Green chels are typical, and blue or blue-green chels occur too. Both sexes can have them. [24, 25, 26]

Bolds can have orange coloring too. Orange abdominal markings are common in young Bolds, and some keep orange coloring as adults. Orange alone doesn't tell you the spider's species, sex or maturity. [23, 24, 25]

Female Bold

Adult female with blue chels, resting on cork.

Male Bold

Adult male with green chels, resting in webbing.

These photos show two known individuals, not a rule that blue means female and green means male. A clear view of the palps or underside is more useful for sexing. [18, 19, 24, 25]

1.10 Regal or Bold? Look at the butt

A black-and-white Regal and a Bold can look almost identical from the front. For typical markings, a clear top view of the abdomen gives you better clues. Look at the rear pair of pale spots and the black area around them. [14, 23]

Dull, or matte, means it doesn't reflect light as strongly. On a Bold, the contrast between these dark patches and the shinier surrounding scales can be subtle. Lighting, hairs and camera angle can hide it. The front views on the previous pages don't show this abdominal pattern clearly.

Use several clues together. The three familiar pale spots alone aren't enough because both species can have them. Color forms and worn markings can make identification harder, and other Phidippus species can look similar. If the features don't line up, get a clear top view and ask an experienced keeper to check. [23, 27]

Two separate questions: Is it a Regal or a Bold? Is it male or female? The abdomen pattern helps with species; mature palps and the underside help with sex.

Quick check

• What does the number in i6 count?
• Why should you leave a molting spider’s hammock alone?
• Name two changes that mean it’s time to ask an experienced keeper for help.

Check the answer key. Review any missed topic before moving on.

Finish the quick check before continuing. You can come back to review any completed module.

2.1 Start with the care you can provide

Regals and Bolds are common choices in the US pet trade, and they're the two species this course covers. Choose a spider around i5–i6 or older, with a confirmed species identification, that's already eating reliably.

The Spider People Network (SPN) community reports that very young spiderlings can be harder to raise. Sometimes losses happen even when it seems like you're doing everything right. That can be upsetting, especially for a newer keeper. Starting with a larger juvenile that's already eating reliably gives you more room to learn and a better chance of getting off to a good start.

2.2 Questions for the seller

• Is it a Regal, a Bold, or another species?
• Was this spider captive bred or wild caught?
• What instar or life stage is it, and was that tracked or estimated? When did it last molt?
• What prey is it currently accepting, and when did it last eat?
• What temperature, watering and enclosure routine is it accustomed to?
• Has it had trouble feeding, drinking, climbing or molting?
• Do you know the sex?

You won't always get a complete history. Record what is known and what is estimated. If previous prey isn't available locally, choose a manageable alternative from the feeder section.

2.3 Your readiness check

• You can inspect the enclosure daily and provide drinking water at the needed interval.
• You can buy small quantities of live feeders and keep them healthy between pet-store visits.
• You have a secure location with daytime light, darkness at night, and no direct sun.
• Children and other pets can be kept away from the enclosure and handling area.
• You have a catch cup, soft brush, fine mister, feeding tools, and an experienced keeper contact.
• Someone can follow your care plan when you're away.
• The animal fits your household and any applicable housing rules.

2.4 Your spider’s basic care card

Keep the basics in one place. Use the seller's information and compare two independent care sources. It's fine to write unknown when you don't have an answer.

2.5 Build before you buy

Complete the care card and the Module 3 enclosure audit. Use a small combination thermometer/hygrometer, a device that measures both temperature and humidity. Place it on the shelf where the enclosure will sit. Check readings at different times of day, and watch how quickly the enclosure dries after watering. Prepare feeders, drinking water, transfer tools and a care log. After arrival, allow time to settle and build a retreat.

Key takeaway: The spider arrives after the home, tools and care plan are ready.

Quick check

• Why does this course recommend starting around i5–i6?
• What are three basic questions to ask a seller?
• What needs to be ready before arrival?

Check the answer key. Review any missed topic before moving on.

Finish the quick check before continuing. You can come back to review any completed module.

3.1 Think vertically and protect the hammock

Regals and Bolds need an arboreal-style enclosure: one with useful height, upper cover and things to climb and jump between. A tall empty box isn't enough. Add branches, cork, leafy structures or other secure surfaces that connect the lower area to the upper retreat.

Jumpers often build near the top. Front, side or lower access can let you provide care without tearing through the hammock. A top-opening design can work if the whole upper section can be removed without pulling apart the retreat. Check where the webbing actually attaches before opening anything.

• A secure upper location for a hammock or hide
• Connected climbing routes and places to pause at different heights
• Clear space for safe prey presentation or a feeding dish
• Ventilation on more than one side, sized so the spider can't escape
• Access that lets you find the spider and provide care without dismantling its home

A jumper setup with cork, greenery, substrate and a high hide. Front access leaves the top in place.

3.2 Size is a starting estimate

These are Spider People product examples, not universal instar cutoffs. Two spiders at the same instar can differ in size. Upgrade according to the actual animal and how well the enclosure works, not a birthday on the calendar. Don't apply a tarantula's 2x–3x legspan rule to a jumper.

A very large or cluttered enclosure can make small prey harder to find and feeding harder to confirm. A cramped enclosure can make opening it disturb most of the spider's space. In our keeper experience, more retreat options can help a startled spider remain inside. Arrange space so both the spider and its keeper can use it.

3.3 Naturalistic and dollhouse styles

A naturalistic enclosure can be a beautiful little slice of nature on your shelf. Cork, branches and leafy cover give your jumper different textures to explore, places to hide and routes to climb. Substrate helps hold water and release it gradually, making humidity easier to manage.

Cork and leafy growth connect the lower habitat with sheltered space near the top.

A dollhouse enclosure can be fun too. Themes from favorite games, shows or hobbies can introduce new people to spider keeping. Check every piece for safe materials, stable placement and useful climbing surfaces. A bare floor dries more quickly than a setup with substrate, so it may need closer attention to watering.

You can mix the two: a naturalistic home with a fun hide, or a themed setup with cork, plants and substrate. The spider's basic needs come first, ahead of the look you prefer. Give it room to move, places to hide, easy care access and safe surfaces for drinking water.

Naturalistic doesn't mean bioactive. A bioactive setup includes living components such as plants, springtails and microorganisms. You can enjoy a naturalistic home with substrate, cork and foliage without maintaining a whole ecosystem. Even with cleanup organisms, you'll still need to remove uneaten prey and check for nasty stuff like mold growth.

3.4 Choose materials for a habitat

• Choose decor made for animal habitats, with a clear description of its materials. A toy or craft label doesn't tell you whether it's suitable for a spider that may drink water from its surface.
• For moss, look for a reputable terrarium product labeled undyed and untreated, without added preservatives. Organic alone doesn't answer those questions. If the label is vague, ask the supplier or choose a product with clearer information.
• Rinse moss before adding it. Squeeze it while wet and check the water. Bright green or other obvious artificial dye running out means it's the wrong choice. Clear water means there's no obvious dye bleeding. A light brown tea color can come from natural plant tannins. [12]
• Use substrate intended for animal habitats without added fertilizers or pesticides. Some potting soils contain fertilizer beads, added plant food or pest-control treatments, so don't assume a houseplant mix is suitable. Check the ingredients, and ask about treatments on live plants before adding them.
• Avoid flaking paint, sharp edges, exposed sticky adhesive, strong odors, loose fibers and parts that could fall or trap the spider.
• For mesh or fabric climbing aids, choose a tight, non-fraying material without loops that can catch feet. Secure the edges and let suitable adhesive fully set before the spider goes in.

Easy buying rule: Start with products intended for animal habitats, then check the actual materials and treatments. Skip craft moss when you can't confirm what's in it.

3.5 Drinking water and humidity are different needs

Humidity is moisture in the air. Drinking water is water the spider can reach and drink. Damp substrate can help buffer humidity, but it doesn't replace offering drinking water on an accessible surface.

Use the substrate's appearance as one clue to drying. When it needs water, add a modest amount down a corner so the lower layers absorb it. Keep the habitat damp where intended rather than flooded. The water can evaporate gradually, while upper surfaces have room to dry.

Don't give your jumper a dish of water. Small spiders can become trapped and drown. For this beginner setup, offer drinking water by lightly misting a reachable wall or suitable surface. Don't leave puddles. [1, 2]

Low humidity in your area, along with running your AC or heating indoors, can make an enclosure dry out quicker. A more humid room may slow it down. Watch your own setup instead of assuming every watering will last exactly three days.

Substrate that stays soggy, condensation that lingers long after watering, or mold means it's time to adjust your watering and airflow. If the enclosure dries too quickly, offer water more often or improve room humidity. Don't seal off ventilation to trap humidity. Your spider needs fresh air as well as water.

Practical balance: Provide drinking water, preserve ventilation, and let surfaces dry between light mistings. Don't seal the enclosure to chase a humidity number.

3.6 Light and temperature

Provide indirect daylight or suitable daytime lighting, followed by a dark night period. Jumpers are visual hunters, so a permanently dim cupboard isn't a good display location. Keep lights outside the enclosure and check for heat buildup. [1, 2]

Never put the enclosure in direct sun. Even if the room feels comfortable, a small container can heat quickly. Keep it away from drafts, heaters, smoke, aerosols, scented sprays, cleaners and pesticides.

Use a combination thermometer/hygrometer to check temperature and humidity on the enclosure's shelf. For these common pet jumpers, aim for steady daytime temperatures in the 70s°F. A brief dip into the 60s isn't automatically an emergency, but sustained cold can reduce activity and feeding. If the room regularly stays in the 60s or climbs toward the mid-80s, adjust the room conditions. [1, 7]

I (Kevin from Spider People) use a room humidifier to keep my spider room around 35–40% relative humidity because my enclosures dry out too quickly below that. That's what works in my room; it isn't a target for the air inside every jumper enclosure. Substrate, drinking water and ventilation still need attention.

The enclosure can be warmer than the room, especially near lights or another heat source. Less airflow can slow heat loss. Check inside near the upper area your spider uses with a safely secured thermometer or probe, leaving no escape gap or exposed adhesive. Compare that reading with the room to see how much yours differs. [28]

If the room needs warmth, a safely placed, thermostat-controlled space heater can help. Keep enclosures well away from it and out of the hot airflow. Use AC or move the enclosure to a cooler room before temperatures keep climbing above the mid-80s. Check the shelf reading after any change. Avoid direct heat mats on tiny enclosures, exposed hot surfaces and unregulated lamps.

3.7 When to rehouse

Rehousing means moving your spider into another enclosure. Prepare the new home first. Avoid routine moves during premolt or early recovery; if the current home is unsafe, ask an experienced keeper to help you plan the transfer.

• More usable room: If basic care disturbs nearly all of the spider's space and it frequently bolts out as the door opens, it may benefit from more room and cover. Exploring quickly by itself doesn't prove the enclosure is too small.
• Better access: If opening the door repeatedly tears a hammock, change the layout or choose an opening that leaves it intact.
• Secure containment: If it escapes through vents or cracks, move it into an escape-proof home with smaller openings. Replace a broken enclosure or unreliable closure.
• Easier movement: For a spider losing its grip, add connected textured routes and lower resting places. Rehouse if the current setup can't provide safe access to food and water.

An easy-to-miss hazard: flea treatments

Flea collars and topical flea treatments contain chemicals intended to kill small arthropods. Residue from treated pets can transfer onto hands or gloves. Keep that residue away from your spider, its feeders and anything that goes into its enclosure. [20, 21]

The route can be easy to miss: touch a treated pet or flea collar, then touch your tongs, a feeder, decor or the enclosure. Insecticide exposure can seriously harm or kill spiders. Don't assume the treatment is harmless to a spider just because it's safe for your dog or cat when used as directed.

1. Keep flea treatments and pet-treatment supplies away from spider supplies.

2. Before spider care, wash with unscented soap, rinse thoroughly and dry your hands. Do this again after touching treated pets or handling feeders.

3. Keep tongs, feeding cups, misters and decor clean. If an item may be contaminated, set it aside and use clean equipment.

4. If using gloves, use a fresh pair of powder-free nitrile gloves. Change them after touching a possible source of residue. Gloves can carry chemicals too.

Wash your hands before spidering. Clean hands, clean tools and separate supplies make accidental transfer much less likely.

3.8 Pre-arrival enclosure audit

Key takeaway: Choose the style you enjoy, then make it secure, usable and easy to maintain. Decoration works best when it supports the spider’s actual needs.

Quick check

• Why does the opening design matter for a jumping spider?
• Why are the MiniCrypt and CryptKeeper instar ranges only starting estimates?
• What should you check when buying moss, and what should you do if obvious dye washes out?

Check the answer key. Review any missed topic before moving on.

Finish the quick check before continuing. You can come back to review any completed module.

4.1 More attention doesn't mean constant disturbance

Young jumpers generally need feeding opportunities and water checks more often than larger adults. They spend time exploring and hunting, and juveniles are also growing. Check your spider, its abdomen and the habitat. Make your care choices based on your observations.

A useful beginner starting rhythm is to assess an established juvenile for food every two or three days and a larger adult roughly once or twice a week. Offer sooner if the abdomen has become slim, or wait if it is approaching very full. These are check-in reminders, not mandatory meal intervals. Molting and the individual spider override the calendar.

4.2 Use the feeding chart

Compare the abdomen with the carapace and with your spider’s own previous appearance. Look before a meal, then again afterward. The chart below is an approximate guide for juveniles and adult females of Regals and Bolds. Its drawings aren't exact measurement cutoffs.

A big abdomen can reflect a meal or eggs, and body shapes vary, so size alone doesn't tell the whole story. Mature males are normally slimmer and may lose interest in food. Keep water available. A badly shriveled abdomen still needs attention.

Feeding rule: Offer manageable prey while monitoring the abdomen. Pause as it approaches very full. Water remains a separate need.

4.3 Choose prey your spider can manage

Use healthy, captive-raised feeder insects. Avoid wild-caught prey with an unknown pesticide or parasite history. Common choices include small crickets, mealworms, flies and small roach nymphs. Larger flightless fruit flies, Drosophila hydei, can still suit some smaller i5–i6 spiders. Choose by the actual spider’s size and hunting ability, then move to larger prey as needed.

Start with prey smaller than the spider's body and easy for it to control. Size alone isn't the whole risk: a hard, biting or very active feeder may be harder to handle than a soft fly of similar length. If the spider backs away or struggles, remove the feeder and try a smaller or different one.

A spider with a small abdomen may need more food, but that doesn't mean dropping in a pile of insects. Offer one manageable prey item, observe the result, and decide whether another is appropriate. Some jumpers are enthusiastic hunters; others are finicky little goobers. Adjust the prey and presentation rather than prodding the spider into eating.

4.4 The safe feeding routine

A recently molted youngster that's back out and moving normally may be ready for a meal. If a growing spider hasn't molted for four to six weeks and starts refusing food, premolt is one possibility. Older juveniles may go longer between molts, and mature adults normally won't molt again. The calendar alone can't tell you whether to feed. [11, 15]

If it's still active and exposed, you can offer manageable prey at the usual checks and remove anything it doesn't take. Once it settles into a thickened or sealed hammock, leave it alone and keep live prey out of the enclosure. Keep offering drinking water nearby throughout.

1. Locate the spider. Look at its abdomen and hammock, and check when it last molted. Keep live prey out of the enclosure during molting and early recovery, or when it is tucked into a thickened, closed hammock.

2. Choose a healthy, appropriately sized feeder. Have a catch cup ready before opening the enclosure.

3. Offer the feeder where the spider can find it. A smooth-sided feeding cup can help keep crawling prey visible and easier to remove.

4. Observe from outside. Mealworms can burrow or bite, and crickets can injure a vulnerable spider. A dish doesn't make them harmless.

5. Remove uneaten prey after an unsuccessful supervised attempt. Never leave a cricket overnight or leave risky prey with a molting spider.

6. Record what was offered, eaten, refused and removed. Remove the discarded prey remains when accessible.

For a biting feeder such as a cricket, disabling its bite means using feeding tongs to firmly pinch or crush its head enough to incapacitate it. Its body may still wiggle, which can help catch the jumper's attention. Offer it in a feeding dish and supervise. If you're unsure it's disabled, fully pre-kill it or choose a more manageable feeder. This doesn't make an oversized cricket a suitable meal.

A refusal is information. Check molt status, light, temperature, prey size and the spider’s condition. Give it a chance to settle before repeatedly trying new feeders. Refusal with a shrinking, shriveled abdomen or weakness deserves help.

4.5 Keep store-bought feeders healthy

You don't need to build feeder colonies for this course. Buy manageable quantities and care for them until feeding day. Use the supplier’s instructions for that feeder species and life stage; storage instructions for one insect don't automatically fit another.

• Choose healthy feeders and keep their container clean.
• Discard moldy, foul-smelling, dead or deteriorating feeders. Let chilled mealworms warm before assessing activity.
• Keep food and hydration fresh. Hungry, drying insects need care too.
• Don't routinely dust spider prey with reptile supplement powder.
• Keep feeders away from sprays and pesticides. Wash hands after tending them.

Healthy feeders matter: Buying fewer insects and caring for them properly beats storing a large quantity badly. You're feeding your feeders until it's time to feed your spider.

Many suppliers recommend taking refrigerated mealworms out to eat and drink every one to two weeks. Keep their bedding dry and ventilation clear. Follow the directions for the feeders you buy; a month in the fridge with no checks isn’t the plan. [5]

4.6 Offer drinking water regularly

Check daily. Our preferred routine is a light mist on an accessible wall or safe surface each day, adjusted to the enclosure’s drying. Aim to provide fresh drinking water at least every one to three days rather than allowing long dry stretches. Missing a day or two doesn't mean an otherwise healthy spider will automatically die, but check the actual conditions when you return.

Use a fine mister to leave small beads of water, not a flood. Don't spray the spider directly or soak the hammock. If the surface is still wet, don't keep adding water just to satisfy a calendar. Humidity and moisture from prey don't replace a reliable drinking opportunity.

Wild jumpers can obtain water from environmental moisture and prey. The practical captive-care job is to make drinking water accessible without leaving the enclosure permanently wet. Watering intervals vary across published keeper guides, which is why observation matters. [1, 2]

4.7 Cleaning and routine checks

Keep useful webbing in place. Don't strip the enclosure clean on a fixed weekly schedule or pull apart a retreat to reach a harmless leftover molt. If substantial cleaning is necessary, plan a transfer first. Bioactive cleanup organisms don't replace your inspection.

4.8 Keep a simple care log

Record water, meals, molts and changes in behavior or grip. A quick note or photo helps.

4.9 When climbing gets harder

A jumper that used to walk up acrylic easily may start slipping. As a spider approaches old age, it can naturally start losing its grip strength, but it can also signal a problem with health, surfaces or conditions. Sudden change, weakness or repeated falls deserves attention rather than an automatic label of old age.

• Add connected cork, branches, ramps or other secure textured routes.
• Provide lower resting areas and shorter fall distances.
• Keep drinking water and manageable prey within easy reach.
• Keep familiar webbing and hammocks where practical.

4.10 When to get help

• Injury, leaking body fluid, weakness, repeated falls or sudden grip loss
• A shriveled abdomen with continued trouble eating or drinking
• A suspected stuck molt, possible chemical exposure or other rapid decline

Ask an experienced jumping spider keeper or the SPN community for help. Share clear photos, recent meals and molts, and enclosure conditions. Don’t force-feed or pull on a stuck molt.

Key takeaway: Check daily, meet your spider’s needs, and adjust care when those needs change.

Quick check

• Your spider’s abdomen is rounded, like stage 3 in the chart. Should you keep offering manageable prey?
• What care do store-bought feeders need while you wait to use them?
• What changes would help a spider that is losing its grip?

Check the answer key. Review any missed topic before moving on.

Finish the quick check before continuing. You can come back to review any completed module.

5.1 Handling is optional

Some jumpers become comfortable walking or jumping between hands. Others remain hesitant. Handling isn't required for good care, and accepting it once doesn't mean the spider will always want the same interaction.

If you choose to handle, work seated on the floor or low over a clear table or contained surface. Keep the spider away from your face, hair, sleeves and room clutter. Its web tether is useful, but it isn't a guarantee against a fall. Close the room and keep other animals away.

1. Wash with unscented soap, rinse thoroughly and dry your hands. Your spider will touch whatever is left on your skin, including residue from flea treatments, lotions or cleaners. If using gloves, choose fresh powder-free nitrile and keep them clean too.

2. Find the spider before opening its home. Don't coax it out of a hammock or disturb suspected premolt or recent molting.

3. Offer a stable finger, hand, cup or structure in its path. Give it time to inspect the route.

4. For an active, exposed spider, a soft paintbrush can gently encourage movement from behind or beside it. Use light guidance, pause when it hesitates, and leave a clear destination.

5. If the attempt becomes repeated frantic escape or defensive behavior, stop and try another time. Never pin, squeeze, drag, grab or push the spider out of a tight hiding place.

6. Stay low, follow its movements, and let it step back into its enclosure when the interaction is over.

A hesitant spider may settle once it is out, but don't assume it will. Watch what this spider is doing now. Gentle coaxing and repeated forced escape aren't the same interaction.

Keep hands low and watch the spider throughout the interaction. Photo: Kristin.

5.2 Supervised playground time

A small jumper playground can offer optional exploration outside the enclosure: low branches, textured bridges and secure resting places. Treat it as a supervised activity, not a place to leave the spider while you do something else.

• Use the same safe-material standards as the enclosure.
• Keep the structure low and contained, with no route into curtains, cables, furniture or pets.
• Provide connected routes and a nearby catch cup. Keep an unobstructed view of the spider.
• End the session if the spider repeatedly tries to escape, becomes defensive or has difficulty moving.

5.3 Opening and transferring safely

1. Close the room, remove pets and clear the work area. Work low, ideally within a larger empty containment area.

2. Prepare the destination, catch cup, stiff card or lid, soft brush and feeding tools before opening anything.

3. Locate the spider and its retreat. Open through an access point that leaves the hammock intact.

4. Position the cup or new enclosure as a clear destination. Guide gently with the brush if needed. Don't pinch legs with a lid or cup rim.

5. Close and check every lid and vent before ending the task. Observe the spider afterward and record the move.

5.4 If the spider escapes

1. Stop and keep watching it. Don't swat, blow, grab or chase it into a corner.

2. Close the room and keep people and pets clear. Bring the catch cup and brush to the spider.

3. Place the cup over or ahead of it, or guide it into the cup. Slide a stiff card beneath the rim slowly without catching legs.

4. Return it to a secure enclosure and check how it got out.

5. If it disappears, search carefully around nearby edges, objects, upper surfaces and hiding spaces. Avoid spraying cleaners, moving furniture roughly or vacuuming the area. Ask an experienced keeper for help.

5.5 What can make a bite more likely

Jumpers can bite if threatened, restrained or pressed against skin. A spider that retreats behind leaves isn't inviting a finger to push into the same tight space. Reduce pressure and offer an easier route.

Spider People Network members have reported bites after a keeper handled feeders with bare hands and then handled a spider. Prey residue could contribute, so wash, rinse and dry your hands between feeder care and handling. Don't make your fingers smell like food.

Bites from common pet jumpers generally aren’t considered medically significant, but they can hurt. People often compare the pain with a bee sting, though reactions vary. [10]

5.6 If you get bitten

Stay calm and get the spider safely back into its enclosure. Don't grab or swat it. Wash the bite with soap and water, and use a cool compress if it's sore or swollen. Keep it clean and avoid scratching. If a reaction is severe, unusual or keeps getting worse, get medical advice. [6]

5.7 An unexpected egg sac

Regal and Bold females can lay infertile egg sacs, sometimes called phantom sacs. If the female has never mated, those eggs won't produce babies. A female carrying eggs and getting ready to lay is called gravid. The eggs may be fertile or infertile. [13, 22]

If you can't confirm she hasn't been exposed to a male, treat a new sac as potentially fertile and ask for help. A mature female bought at an expo or pet store may already be carrying eggs, especially if her origin is unknown. Ask the seller about her origin and mating history.

Leave the sac alone, secure the enclosure, and contact an experienced jumping spider keeper if you're unsure. Tiny spiderlings can fit through openings that hold the mother, so ask about suitable fine-mesh outer containment if hatching is possible. Don't tear open the hammock to inspect the eggs.

5.8 Care for the spider and support other keepers

• House these jumpers individually. They can eat each other, so don't add a roommate for company.
• Provide cover, climbing routes, drinking water and appropriate food. Don't provoke a defensive reaction or force a hunt for content.
• Use a backup keeper during absences. A full abdomen doesn't cancel the need for drinking water.
• Never release a captive spider or feeder insect outdoors. Arrange responsible rehoming if you can no longer provide care.

When another keeper is struggling, be understanding and offer useful help. Put the animal's well-being ahead of the urge to ridicule or shame someone. Explain your concern in a way they can hear, then help them find a practical next step. A message they can actually receive has a much better chance of improving life for that keeper and their animals.

Key takeaway: Prepare the space, use gentle guidance, stay low, and keep watching your spider. Support other keepers with the same care you want for their animals.

Quick check

• When can you gently coax a spider with a soft brush, and when should you leave it alone?
• Why should you wash your hands after handling feeders before handling your spider?
• What should you do after a bite?

Finish the quick check before continuing. You can come back to review any completed module.